BY MAKI SOMOSOT

In print | Published November 11, 2010

My last column probably made readers dive headfirst into the deepest, darkest recesses of my cultural morass here in the City of Lights. While culture shock is never a pleasant subject to discuss, especially when a much-beloved city like Paris falls under question, it has not entirely defined my study abroad experience. There are plenty of wonderful experiences — most of them unforgettable — that I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy in this city.
Despite my criticisms, Paris still preserves much of its native charm, reminding me of my purpose for coming here in the first place. It may be dirty and overpopulated in places, but it is still, at heart, a beautiful city that is rich in history and continues to captivate visitors and residents. One could argue that this kind of initial impression did not bode well for the eventual culture shock I experienced, but that is besides the point.
First off, the stereotype of Paris as a vibrant global capital of culture is true. Each week, a plethora of artistic and musical events takes place all throughout the city. Countless new bars, clubs and restaurants open their doors to eager clientele. Paris is in a constant cultural flux but never fails to promote its fast-paced nightlife and arts scene.
A student-friendly city, Paris allows students to benefit from significant discounts at events and also grants free entry to most museums. Major events are well-publicized, thanks to a massive, city-wide poster campaign, supplemented by a slate of previews and reviews found in free weekly magazines whose sole purpose for publication is to recommend weekend entertainment highlights. These are strategically placed at every Metro station, where Parisians can leaf through their pages while bored during their daily commute. Also free are booklets and leaflets containing precious practical information on live music concerts and on up-and-coming artists seeking an audience — all of which have accumulated in a massive pile in my room. It amazes me how much Paris has effectively transformed culture into both a core business and a lifestyle for its residents.
The “Nuit Blanche” (roughly translated as “sleepless night” or “all-nighter”) is a perfect example of how leisure and entertainment have been institutionalized in the Parisian calendar. On every first Saturday of October, numerous unusual cultural and artistic spectacles take place all throughout Paris all night long, running from 7 p.m. until 7 a.m. the next morning. Museums and special exhibits in Paris also grant free entry for this one special night. Several Metro and bus lines run all night for this purpose.
At this year’s “Nuit Blanche,” my group of friends ran around the center of Paris all night, hopping from a surrealist short film, to an interpretive silent theater piece, to a documentary of European immigrants recounting an object of sentimental importance from their homeland and then finally to a giant wall display of alarm clocks counting down to the end of the night. It’s impressive how seriously this city takes its fun.
Paris also considers its laidback pace of life a serious business. This manifests in the widespread café and bistro culture, where customers like to sit on the outside terrace with a cold beer or a freshly-brewed espresso shot while chatting with friends for hours on end. My friends and I have made a habit of going out for coffee or beer just to unwind at the neighborhood watering holes. Another means of relaxation is to stroll around Paris whenever the weather is agreeable, leading to surprising discoveries like hidden streets and secret passageways otherwise unknown to tourists.
Although my housing is far from perfect, my quartier is home to one of the most culturally diverse communities and some of the liveliest nightlife scenes in Paris. The 20th arrondissement is composed of Menilmontant and Belleville, previously poor working-class districts, which now boast an array of bars, concert spaces, galleries and restaurants catering to every taste and distinction. The 20th is also a hotbed of creative and political activity, thanks to its resident artists, musicians and leftists.
Compared to the more touristy neighborhoods in the center of Paris, the 20th is much cheaper and possibly more authentic. My foyer compensates for its living standards with its strategic location right in the middle of Menilmontant. Located just downhill from my foyer is Oberkampf, another popular nightlife spot, while Belleville itself is just a 15-minute walk away. Personal highlights of my quartier include the underground dive bars that feature free live music (with the consumption of at least one drink), and several choice restaurants. But my best discovery has to be the neighborhood park on top of the hill, with a 360-degree panorama of Paris that beats the crowds sitting on the Sacre Coeur Church steps any day.
While I griped about how small Paris was in my last column, I also acknowledge the obvious advantage that it is easy and convenient to travel throughout the city. The Metro is an extensive train system that serves every possible nook and cranny of Paris and is generally dependable, running even on official protest days. The Metro map makes logical sense and making transfers is never a stressful hassle, since all the changes for other lines are clearly marked. Convenience aside, another charm of the Paris Metro is the literally underground musical scene that it supports. Busking musicians — including mariachi bands, accordionists, jazz manouche duos, African guitarists and opera singers, just to name a few — embark on trains everyday to play impromptu music for passengers, who often give generous donations. Of course, there are also the homeless who beg for money, but this is an unfortunate reality that exists in every big city.
Paris is known for wonderful historical architecture, but this had never struck me so concretely until I had to mount the back of a scooter, while running errands for my internship. There is no feeling more exhilarating in the world than flying past monument after monument and seeing distinctive Parisian neighborhoods blur into one another. Hands down, riding on the back of a fast-moving scooter that someone else is driving is the best way to enjoy Paris. It’s moments like these that make me believe again in the all-glittering, dreamlike stereotype of this city, and momentarily forget about its grubbier realities.
Maki is a junior. You can reach her at msomoso1@swarthmore.edu.

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